Goya, or bitter melon, is one of the vegetables that divides people most sharply. Some find the bitterness appealing from the first bite. Others find it overwhelming and give up. The difference is usually in the preparation. This is a practical guide to handling goya at home, including how to reduce the bitterness to a level that most people find pleasant without removing it entirely.
Choosing a good goya ¶
Look for a goya that is dark green, firm, and heavy for its size. The paler and yellower the skin, the more mature the fruit and the more bitter it will be. The shorter, darker variety we stock from Shimizu Farm in Wakayama has a more concentrated flavour than the long, pale supermarket type. The ridges on the surface should be sharp and defined, not soft or flattened.
How to prepare goya before cooking ¶
Halve the goya lengthways and scoop out the seeds and white pith with a spoon. The pith is where most of the bitterness is concentrated, so remove it thoroughly. Slice the flesh into half-moons about 5mm thick. Place in a bowl, sprinkle generously with salt (about half a teaspoon per medium goya), toss to coat, and leave for ten minutes. Then squeeze the slices firmly with your hands and rinse under cold water. This process reduces the bitterness by roughly half.
Goya champuru: the standard method ¶
Goya champuru is the most common way to cook goya in Japan, originating in Okinawa. Heat a little sesame oil in a wide pan over medium-high heat. Add the prepared goya slices and stir-fry for two minutes. Add firm tofu, broken into rough chunks, and continue cooking until the tofu has some colour. Beat two eggs, pour over the pan, and stir until just set. Season with soy sauce and a little bonito flakes. The whole dish takes about eight minutes from a prepared goya.
Other ways to use goya ¶
Goya also works well thinly sliced and dressed raw with sesame oil, rice vinegar, and a pinch of sugar. The salting and pressing step is still important for the raw preparation. It also works in miso soup, added in the last two minutes of cooking. If you have more than you can use in one or two days, the prepared (salted, pressed, rinsed) slices freeze reasonably well in a single layer.
We stock goya from Shimizu Farm in Wakayama through the summer months. It comes in on Tuesday and Friday with the main delivery. If you have never cooked it before and want advice on quantities or preparation, ask us in the shop.